Giles Baths

Giles Baths: A doorway to summers past

A natural rock pool known as the ‘Bogey Hole’ at the northern headland of Coogee Beach was first leased to Randwick Council by the state government in 1902, about the same time that the bogey hole was more formally constructed.

In 1912, the cliff and rocky foreshore of the northern escarpment at Coogee Beach was gazetted as a reserve for public ‘gents’ bathing. This was formerly part of ‘North Reserve’, later of Dunningham Reserve, first dedicated for public recreation in 1886, and later renamed after the much loved local and state politician John Dunningham, champion of our local surf clubs and the NSW coastal marine environment. He was also NSW Minister for Public Works. Many ocean pools in coastal communities up and down the NSW coast owe their existence to his legacy.

The time lapse photography used by the award-winning photographer, J Roarty, in the mid 1880s depicts an evocative almost mystical, rocky coastal pool landscape. He was the earliest known European to capture the location close up. But is it correct to assert that this was the exclusive domain of male patrons?

Council endorsed under seal the leasing of the ‘Gents Baths’ at Coogee from the NSW public works department in December 1911, just in time for the summer of 1912. Prior to this, FW Lloyd was the first private proprietor of the baths at the time that the premises appeared to consist of a series of timber buildings. Lloyd’s lease expired in 1909 when the baths are referred to as the ‘municipal baths’.

By 1918 the income from the ‘gents’ baths during 1917 was under consideration by Randwick Mayor Fenton for undertaking repairs to the still generically named baths on the northern headland. J McAuley was applying to Council to seek repairs to the gentlemen’s baths in 1921 and again in early 1922 after storms had damaged the facilities.

Giles Baths signage from the late 1920s – the era of the Coogee Pier- immediately debunks the long-accepted myth that this was always a ‘male only’ space to rival the Women’s Baths at the southern end of Coogee Bay, just north of iconic Wylie’s Baths. It can be observed that women too, have a long tradition in this spot, despite the infamy of this muscular space during the twentieth century.

In 1924, Oscar E Giles was applying to Randwick Council in February of 1924, in a competitive tender process, for the right to lease the men’s pool – offering £268 as the successful bidder. This is easily four years before the accepted wisdom for when the ‘Giles Baths’ era traditionally commenced. Little evidence exists in Council’s archives as to the exact construction date of the iconic ‘Inter War Mediterranean Style’ of seaside building erected sometime between 1925-1928. By the time of the opening of the Coogee Pier and Shark Net in 1929, the iconic Giles Building is visible in the photographs of the day.

Three years prior to this milestone in Coogee’s history, May 1926, OE (Oscar) Giles made application to Randwick Council ‘to erect a Notice Board immediately behind the Tramway Bundy Clock at the corner of Asher Street and Havelock Avenue Coogee, advertising the Hot Sea Baths’. This was referred to the works committee as an obvious strategy to promote his hot sea baths at the northern end of the beach. This would be termed ‘in your face’ marketing today - targeting the day trippers arriving at Coogee via the tram. The following month in June 1926 the ‘Giles’ Cup’ three-mile race was held ‘under ideal weather conditions.’ The reader is left to assume that it was a swimming race ‘starting and finishing at Giles’, undoubtedly a fine promotional opportunity for the lessee of the baths in the depths of the winter season. Giles was cementing its reputation with the Coogee locals and Sydneysiders alike!

Oscar Giles was quick to promote the restorative properties of the facilities at the establishment he had taken over the year before. The press headlines screamed ‘Coogee Bathing Sensation’ and ‘The age of miracles has not passed’ the Evening News extolled. “A returned soldier suffering with rheumatism had to be lifted in and out of the hot sea baths, and after a course of hot baths threw away his crutches and declared that he was absolutely cured. His case is one of many with rheumatism, sciatica and neuralgia etc will be wise to visit these baths where in addition to the sea baths they can have a life-giving sun bath, electric light baths, medical gymnasium, massage, swimming pool and ladies and gents’ hot sea baths…take the tram to Coogee Terminus”.

Like Manly, Coogee was offering ‘electric baths’ ‘for the treatment of a few ailments, with massage ‘experts’ also available to male AND female patrons. The signage from the times of the Coogee Pier (1929-1933) becomes our visual confirmation, as does a 1936 advertorial specifying male and female masseuse experts for the mixed-sex clientele. Little detail survives in the minute books of Randwick Council for this era to ‘flesh out’ the ‘mystical’ treatments on offer or the rationale for their necessity in this location. There are only the media and self-promotions of the day.

Giles’ Baths was a health trend of the era, long before the days of health spas and wellness centres. Initially frequented by disfigured and recuperating servicemen after WW1, the restorative properties of seawater had long been championed by medical and quasi medical professionals. Local boxers, footballers and jockeys aiming to shed weight ahead of a big race at Randwick racecourse also frequented the premises long term. These were the stock and trade customer base that saw the Giles facility survive throughout the twentieth century.

In 1936, an advertorial for Giles Hot Sea Baths and Swimming Pool claimed it as, ‘the pride of Coogee’. The ad extolled the medicinal benefits of the facility.  Competitive pricing, ‘an ideal Gymnasium for the busy businessman and the professional man’. It was claimed, ‘the therapeutic value of the electric light baths and the great advantages over Turkish Baths can hardly be overstated’. Giles himself was promoted as a skilful masseur – par excellence – with a ‘weight reducing’ massage therapy. The preventative health properties and ‘curative value’ of the treatments on offer – to both sexes at this time -were marketed to appeal to locals and tourists alike. The competitive price point of Giles’ facility was a major selling point.

By May 1940, whilst war was raging in Europe, a sundial on a granite base was dedicated. This memorial was unveiled outside the baths, honouring a stalwart of Giles Baths, Walter A Inglis (of the horse racing and training dynasty). Walter had for many years taught young boys how to swim at the location.

Successful and popular jockeys Ted McMenamin and Maurice McCarten ‘spent yesterday afternoon at Giles Hot Sea Baths, Coogee’ it was noted in 1941. These wartime legends of the track at Randwick Racecourse were typical of successive generations of jockeys, boxers and footballers who frequented Giles Gym to shed weight ahead of their sporting fixtures. Locals loved rubbing shoulders with the ‘Who’s Who’ of sport in Sydney until the dying days of the iconic facility.

Despite the war, or because of it, Oscar Giles is quoted in the Sydney press during October 1942.  He claimed that patronage at Giles’ was being impacted by the ‘Manpower Raids’. This involved a government official trying to ‘smoke out’ war service dodgers. Accompanied by an army sergeant, the manpower representative visited Giles Baths in the middle of the day questioning patrons of the facility. According to one paper he pulled out an identity card stating that ‘anonymous letters had been received directed towards alleged slackers attending these premises”. Whether this was true, as various newspapers reported that authorities denied sending any investigative team to Giles’, the second time that ‘authorities’ attended Giles’ there were an array of characters, a deaf man, a linotyper from a newspaper, tramway employee, returned servicemen and lots of elderly men. Maybe in search of the legendary healing properties of the facilities or cunningly trying to dodge military service the men were chastised by the inspector to the chagrin of the proprietor. Giles flatly denied the allegations that men frequented the premised to avoid military service. 

Minutes of Randwick Council record the Town Clerk’s report of November 1943, including an extensive account of Oscar Giles’ leasing arrangements and obligations from 1929 for the period of 15 years. Leasing costs plus the obligation of Oscar Giles to;

…demolish the existing building and to build and erect and complete at a cost to be borne by him no less than £3500 improvements to be used as public bathing premises. Such improvements so erected to remain the property of the Council at the termination of the lease… (TC Report 35/1943 Minutes November 1943).

As the iconic Giles structure is clearly visible at the opening of the Shark Net in 1929, it is unclear why Council would be directing Giles in 1943/4 to demolish the structure.

The Council resolution resolved to approach the Department of Lands to re-lease the baths – at a tidy profit based on the subleasing figures offered to Giles and open the lease to a competitive tender.

Further mention of Giles Baths is made at this same meeting of Council in connection to the location of National Emergency Services (NES) a wartime emergency organisation requested to install emergency rescue apparatus on the cliff face near Giles Baths for the rescue of persons from the cliff base. This equipment was to be shared by Police and Ambulance Services. Council resolved to accede to the request.

By 1944 the first order of the day in Mayoral Minutes notes the looming deadline for renewing the Giles Baths lease. Elected officials note that there is still no renewal of Council’s lease from the NSW Department of Lands who owned and administered the baths and public land associated with the Baths on the northern headland of Coogee Beach. As Giles lease expired 28 February 1944, and Council’s lease 31 December 1944 it was determined that Council grant Giles a one-year extension and immediately call for tenders as there was apparently many interested tenderers. The lease was to start from January 1945 to give Council ample time to review the tender applications. The matter was resolved. By June 1944, Randwick Council confirmed with the state government that it would agree to a 12 year lease of the baths known as ‘Giles Boths’ for an annual sum of £20 less 22.5% ‘with the usual Ts&Cs’, and upon confirmation of the lease acceptance, that tenders be sought for the operation of the Baths. By July ‘44 Council accepted (after explanation) the engineer’s report to construct a stone retaining wall at the top of the cliff at Giles Baths. ‘Retaining and repairing dangerous overhangs at the base of the cliff was in hand’ the following months. Come August 1944, Council was modifying the terms and conditions of the lease presented to Council even specifying the charges permitted for the ‘sweat boxes’. Highlighting the £250 bond required by the lease – Council set strict terms including inspection rights for the buildings and facilities, forbidding sub-leasing, painting with ‘two coats of paint’ every other year and setting the fees and charges the successful tenderer would be able to clearly list for client services at the front door, clearly displayed. In 1944 Clause 13 of the proposed lease had resonance in later years of Giles operation, during the war the strict terms covered.

The lessee will not use or permit to be used without the consent of the Council, the premises for purposes other than a bathing place and for the sale of refreshments and tobacco, nor carry on or permit to be carried on upon the same, any gambling, illegal games, noisy, dangerous or offensive business or process.

By August 1944 Oscar Giles is approaching Council with a list of his possessions, fixtures and fittings within ‘the Gentlemen’s Baths’. This included the five sweat boxes, safety deposit boxes, water pumps and much more. Whether the man was beginning to worry that Council was trying to ‘turf him out’ we may never know. What does appear evident from the lease details in the minutes was that Council was driving a hard bargain.  For any proprietor to make an honest living from the facility, in a precarious and weather affected location, it must have been tough going. There appears to be no record of any other tenders apart from the tender offered by Oscar Giles. By August 1945 JJ Giles is approaching the finance committee of Council asking that he be placed on the lease due to the ill health and disability of his father to maintain the gentlemen’s baths in his former efficient manner. The son seemed to advocate a change in the terms of the lease, and these were changed to a weekly rental for Oscar and his sons as Council deemed the terms of the lease, they had offered to be JJ Giles proposed £5 per week rent for ten years to allow the family to make the requisite improvements to the baths for the benefit of the ratepayers’

In January 1947, it is recorded in the Council minute books that Oscar Elias Giles applied to Council through G. Osbourne his Solicitor, to add his two sons James Robert and John Joseph Giles to the Giles Baths lease. This request was acceded to subject to the lease costs being borne by the three men. It is noted that November 1946 Council’s engineer reported to Council that further repairs to the breakwater wall at Giles’ Baths had been undertaken.

By October 1947, Council recorded a deputation from the Coogee Ratepayers Association suggesting that Randwick Council approach the NSW Department of Lands to have McIver’s (Ladies) Baths and the ‘Men’s Baths’, ‘dedicated’ to Council. Council thought this was a good idea and made approaches to the NSW Department of Lands. This request seemed to go nowhere.

The Giles Baths Handball Club applied to Council in 1953 for the resurfacing of the courts at the baths stating that ‘the leasee had given approval’. Council consented to undertaking the works subject to the club playing the costs of £35 plus supply of the 1 tonne of cement it stated was required for the job. The same year Oscar Giles and Mr J Hunt complained to Council about the inadequate water supply in the showers and toilets at the baths. Council noted that this had been an issue for years and resolved to fix the problem by running plumbing from Baden Street at a cost of £350.  Calling for tenders for the work resulted in the appointment of Allen C Angel to undertake the work, with the cheapest tender £ 207. 17. 6.

In September 1954 the Sydney Morning Herald reported a whale and its calf frolicking close to Coogee Beach and the boogey hole beneath Giles’. ‘They swam up and down the beachfront between Wedding Cake Island and Giles’ hot sea baths’ (SMH 25/09/1954 p.9). In December the military gun that was sitting in Dunningham Reserve near Giles’ Baths became the subject of concern because the wooden base had ‘rotted and crumbled’ and ‘remedial action should be taken immediately’.

The beloved squash courts at the rear of the Giles complex were the next modification. Still fondly remembered today by many of our locals old enough to have played on them, they were built in 1957 at a cost of £4000, according to Council’s BA records 413/1957.

Shortly before these courts were built, a masterplan of the complex documents ‘handball courts’, gymnasium, indoor games room, massage room, ‘ladies’ room with indoor bathing stalls – presumably still ‘electric’, sunrooms, outdoor sunbaking bunks, and another five bathing stalls for the men. The natural rock shelf and a giant sandstone & concrete wall guarding the ‘bogey hole’ formation was still in the seas beneath the cliff. In practice, we are left wondering if many women still frequented the establishment from this point onward, especially the bogey hole, by the 1950s given its reputation as ‘male only’ and its reputation as a venue for ‘shady’ activities.

By early 1962, electrical compliance at the baths came onto Council’s radar with a commitment by Council to fund and repair electrical issues deemed ‘fair wear and tear’ beyond that determination, the leasee would be asked to foot the bill. By the first quarter of 1963 the re-leasing of the baths by Council from the NSW Department of Lands was slowing down the electrical compliance work and Council was questioning the presentation of electrical bills.

It is not until September 1969 that evidence exists in the Council minutes of the Giles family’s continued connection to the baths. J Giles, one of the sons of Oscar applies to Council to raise the entrance fee for adults to the baths a whopping 100% from 10 to 20 cents. It is unclear how long it had been since admission costs rose, but at this point permission was granted without a whimper from the elected officials. Oscar Elias F Giles had passed away 10 May 1966, aged 89 years. As reported in the Sydney Morning Herald. His sons continued with the leasing arrangements after his death.

By the latter half of 1970, JJ Giles was applying to Council to replace the water service that his father had requested be renewed back in 1953. We can only assume that due to the industrial use that this renewed infrastructure had seen better days almost 20 years later. The estimated cost of $1000 was referred to the finance committee for determination. By March 1975 the estimates record that the rental for the baths was adjusted at $1080 for the year to June ’75. The minutes also record in July 1975 that it was resolved to lodge an extension of the special lease of 1957/22 for the baths to expire 31 December 1996.

The sub-lease to John J Giles was due to expire by January 1977. Council was keen to review the situation after it had confirmed that the Lands Department would re-lease the baths site for this use. Council was expected to pay $2000 for a lease that expired 1^st January 1978. During the review of the BA 112/1977 the baths are referred to as ‘The Giles Leisure Centre’ by J O’Neill the applicant. This was reflective of the post war expansion of the complex to include handball and squash courts and likely the fact that new leasees had been found. By October 1975, the leases were John O’Neill, Gary Stevens were both South Sydney rugby league players, in partnership with a third man fitness trainer Les Motto. Estimated cost of additions was $5000 at the time of application. It is noted that by 1974 the building had been condemned, due to catastrophic storm damage. Clearly an injection of capital was required from some quarter if Giles was to survive.

According to the Sydney Morning Herald after using much of their income from professional rugby league, modest in this era by today’s professional standards, the trio invested over $47 000 in savings including $10 000 in grant money.  ‘Hot Water’ published in the SMH of 1976, claimed that the trio found their sub-lease could be revoked by the state government before 1996. Furious with Randwick Council who pointed out that the terms were in the contract signed by them under the supervision of a solicitor, the public spat played out in the Sydney media. Eventually it was resolved to enable the establishment to continue operating, to the delight of the local community.

Because of its iconic location, the facilities bore the brunt of storms and weather. Sea air, lack of adequate ongoing maintenance over time and precarious location all played their part in accelerating the decline of the fabric of the building. Inappropriate drainage design played a major part in the demise of the fabric of the building. The convoluted sub-leasing arrangements all point to the fact that the leasees were responsible for the upkeep of the fabric of the permanent building, despite substantial evidence that Randwick Council also ‘chipped in’ to a large extent over the decades of the twentieth century.

The 1970s-1990s were a tumultuous period of controversial in-situ ‘wheeling and dealing’ and gradual decline of Giles. With popularity dwindling and the fabric of the building decaying, the venue was the playground for local politicians, judges, jockeys, bookies, sportsmen and Sydney’s underworld figures.

At one time proposed for classification by the National Trust of Australia in 1994, the building had already once reached a ‘point of no return’ by 1974 when it was condemned after extensive storm damage. By the time of the Coogee Beach Plan of Management in 1998, Randwick Council recommended to the NSW state government the demolition of the Giles Baths buildings based on the assertions that it was not commercially viable or economically sustainable to conserve the fabric of the building. A dilapidation report from 1998 notes that the late 1970s building additions did not allow for drainage, and as a result there had been extensive water damage to the structural fabric. It recommended retention of the Portico and the Inglis commemorative sundial.

The retention of the Giles Portico’ in Dunningham Reserve, has become a symbol or ‘beacon’, a reminder of our past architectural heritage.  It has also become synonymous with the Bali Memorial, being so close to the iconic sculpture that stands defiantly commemorating the Coogee locals lost in this terrorist attack.

The bath's portico also stands silently like a sentinel, guarding our community and personal memories of the past. Looking east it's a doorway to a brighter future. A constant reminder of our community heritage.